Published: Thursday, 29th June, 2006 11:53
Record Breaker
By Dumbarton Reporter Newsroom
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Daredevil David conquers world's hardest rock climb
Tenacious David MacLeod has completed a climb on Dumbarton Rock — now officially recognised as the most difficult ascent ever undertaken by anyone in the world.
The professional rock climber, 27, told the Reporter: `It was an indescribable feeling when I finally completed it. It was just absolutely amazing. The euphoria of achieving my ambition after so much effort was fantastic.`
Despite thousands of head-spinning mountain routes across the globe, the 70 metre high volcanic plug, which is the Burgh's famous landmark, has a long established reputation of providing the world's most arduous climbs.
The Lowland Outcrops Guide mentions that some climbers' `blood runs cold` at the mere mention of the place.
This is now the second time that the Rock has had the honour of hosting the world's toughest climb.
Veteran climber David Cuthbertson's 1983 ascent Requiem was also, at the time, ranked as the most difficult that had been completed.
David, of Dumbarton, added: `David Cuthbertson paved the way with 'Requiem', but my route was more difficult again.
`There is a crack in the rock that Dave followed half way up. The crack is deep enough for hands and protection gear up to the halfway point, then it fades out into a seam.
`The original route Requiem follows a line of holds going rightwards from here, but following the line of the crack all the way to the top remained an obvious challenge.`
Because the rock was climbed in the traditional way, where the rope is carried by the climber and clipped into removal protection, this meant David suffered 60ft falls on each of his nine unsuccessful attempts at the route.
The Dumbarton man — who also lectures on rock climbing — said: `There were a few times when I was lucky not to be seriously hurt, but I was able to continue and finally make it to the top.`
According to the world's officially recognised climbing scale, routes are graded in difficulty from Moderate to Extreme.
The hardest Extreme climbs are given the letter E and designated a number to represent their increasing difficulty.
Whereas 'Requiem' was given a E8, MacLeod's Dumbarton route, named 'Rhapsody', is the first to have been allocated the rating E11.
Now intrepid Dave is planning is to fly to the Alps to attempt the hardest route found on the famous mountain range — the 'Voie Petit' trail on the Grand Capucin Mountain.
He said: `This will be another incredible challenge but I am confident I can manage it.`
He is looking for sponsorship on his latest climb and anyone interested can contact him at davemacleod@blueyonder.co.uk.
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